I decided to work remote from the Outer Banks during Labor Day week. I got lucky with a plethora of surf. I was hoping for it, but didn’t expect the surf to be this good. On Friday, September 9th, Katia delivered. In the morning, it was head to 3-foot overhead. (6-9 foot surf.) By the afternoon, the swell had dwindled, but it was still 6-8 foot surf.
MB, Zander, and I headed to the Outer Banks on Sunday (9/4), after the NC State season opener against Liberty. The football game was a blast and the Wolfpack won. We arrived at the beach around 2pm. All of our friends were hanging out on the beach and there were a few waves out there. I surfed for about an hour.
On Monday, MB, Zander, and I beached it for most of the day. The surf was decent and I got a good session in. Zander got to watch too. I squeezed another session in with Tony and Brad in Kitty Hawk later in the evening.
On Tuesday morning, I surfed with Tony and Eric at Hayman Street. It was chest to head and windy. There were a few good waves to be found and it was a nice to be in some hurricane swell.
Unfortunately, Wednesday and Thursday didn’t produce any decent surf. It was windy, big, and drifty. Thursday was big (double overhead) and tempting—and the drift was chaotic. I decided to save my energy for Friday, when the winds were going offshore.
Katia delivers – barrelicious
I was up early on Friday, but saw there was still some morning sickness. I got some work done, then was in the water by 8:00am. I surfed for 2 hours. It was head to 3-foot overhead. I described my session as barrelicious. I caught so many good waves and tucked into so many barrels that it was unreal. The surf was cranking. I got worked a few times, but I was willing to pay that price for the waves that delivered. A few stand up barrels, a few close-outs. It was all good.
I got out of the water and watched the surf with the peanut gallery (i.e. Mike Rowe and crew), and got some great pictures. My arms and shoulders were already feeling it. I wanted to save some energy for an afternoon session.
Katia delivers – addicting
I went back to the beach house and worked for a few hours. Catching up on email, tickets, and drafting an article for opensource.com. Just before 2pm, I headed back out to meet my new friend Katia. She was kind this morning, but would she be as kind this after a tide change?
I surfed at Hayman Street. The first 15-20 minutes was frustrating. Thank you high tide. Swells were coming in, but nothing was breaking in the surf zone. I saw a lot of good, potential waves pass by. Then…it started firing.
It went from frustrating to 5-star. The word I used to describe this session was addicting. These gentle swells were rolling in and easy to catch. And it was still overhead. I caught one that was 8-foot, connected on the inside, and was an awesome rush. I was in the tube for several seconds. Unbelievable! I just happened to be in the right spot with the right stroke. Keep it coming! These waves were addicting.
Just when I thought I was tired and wanted to head in, I wanted more. My mind told my body that it could rest later. After 2 hours in the water, I was exhausted. My neck and shoulders could have used a massage, or at least a chiropractor. The surf was the best I’ve had all year. Especially that 8-footer.
Katia delivers – purple haze
I love surfing evening sessions. Probably because I worked in restaurants growing up and didn’t get to surf many sunset sessions. For about 15-20 minutes, the ocean turns this amazing purple color during the sunset. It’s breathtaking. I got about an hour in the water, catching a few waves before the end of the day, watching the sunset from the ocean.
That made it three sessions, totaling over 5 hours of surfing logged today. Katia was very kind. Hopefully, there will be some leftovers on Saturday.